Various grass species and varieties have different growth habits. Some are rhizomatous or sod forming. You can see in the picture below that rhizomatous grasses spread from the original plant through underground structures that send up other plants. This is a very effective method for the grass to spread throughout an area providing solid ground cover, much like a lawn.
What are the benefits?
Since sod-forming grasses create a dense stand with the rhizomes safely underground, they are very traffic tolerant. This is useful for areas that have a lot of mechanical traffic as well as livestock traffic. These types of grasses generally have low growing points on the plant making them tolerant of very close grazing. For those of you with horses, this may be what you need since they can chew stands down very low when given the chance. These sod forming grasses can bounce back from that when given time to recover from their rhizomes. On the cattle side of things, set stock paddocks can benefit from having sod-forming grasses. These species can recover from frequent grazing. This is the same reason lawns can handle being mowed regularly during the growing season.
What are the downsides?
With all of those benefits, you may be wondering “Why don’t I use sod-forming grasses in all of my pastures?” There are a few negatives to these grasses. With their low growing habit, many of these species will not get very tall. This makes them difficult for mechanical harvest and also not very high yielding. As more durable grasses, they also do not provide very high forage quality for grazing.
Sod-forming grasses do have their place if the benefits outweigh the negatives for your situation!
The word “rye” gets thrown around a lot in the ag world, specifically when talking about cover crops like cereal rye and annual ryegrass. When you are choosing cover crops, make sure to get the right rye to meet your goals.
Let’s start with the technical differences between cereal rye and annual ryegrass:
Cereal rye’s scientific name is Secale cereale and it is a cool season, winter annual cereal grain. In order for cereal rye to switch from vegetative growth to reproductive growth and produce a seed head, a vernalization period is required. This means cereal rye is a fall planted cool season that will not head out until the following spring.
Annual ryegrass’s scientific name is Lolium multiflorum. Pretty different from cereal rye, right? Also different from cereal rye, annual ryegrass is a bunch-type grass that does not require vernalization in order to produce a seed head and does not always overwinter. We have seen annual ryegrass overwinter in the Midwest depending on the type of winter season we have.
Cereal Rye: We have a full post on cereal rye here, but to summarize, cereal rye can be used as just a cover crop to reduce erosion and sequester nutrients, as a forage to be grazed or harvested, or it can be harvested as grain and straw. In the spring, cereal rye is going to be the first of almost any grass species to green up and begin growing. When it is mature, cereal rye has a higher carbon to nitrogen ratio than annual ryegrass.
Annual Ryegrass: This “rye” can also be used as a cover crop or as a forage. As a fall planted cover crop, annual ryegrass is quick to establish and has an aggressive, fibrous root system that will go to work on conditioning the soil and improving structure. Like we said, it may overwinter and continue to grow in the spring. At that time, it can be terminated, grazed, or harvested in the spring. Contrary to cereal rye, annual ryegrass can work well being early or late interseeded into standing corn. Annual ryegrass will begin to green up later in the spring than cereal rye and cannot be harvested as grain.
Take a look as some real life testimonies about the use of annual ryegrass here!
Seeding Rates and Dates
Cereal rye and annual ryegrass vary in seeding rates and when they can be planted. Annual ryegrass can be spring seeded or fall seeded up until Mid-September in the Upper Midwest. Cereal Rye is a fall seeded species and cannot handle the summer heat if planted any earlier. We have seen cereal rye be planted very late into the winter and still establish well, however, if your goal is a full forage stand or you plan on harvesting the grain, then it needs to be seeded earlier in the fall.
A full seeding rate for annual ryegrass is 20-25 lbs alone, or about 10-15 lbs in a cover crop or forage mix. Cereal rye as only a cover crop can be seeded at 50-60 lbs per acre, or if you are using it as forage or to harvest as grain the rate would be higher at 80-120 lbs per acre.
Make sure you are using the "rye" that is right for you this fall!
What kinds of brassicas can you plant right now? All of them for a few more weeks! (If you are wondering what in the world brassicas are, we have that answer for you HERE!)
Now that we are into September, our time left for brassicas to have a great benefit in the Upper Midwest is coming to an end. Our usual “cut-off” date for seeding brassicas in a mix is around September 15th. After this point, there is not enough growing season left for the brassicas to develop enough to give you the full benefits that we are about to tell you about…
The brassica we get the most questions about is the famous radish. We would almost say this is the most famous brassica because it is known for its deep taproot. The largest section of the radish tuber can reach up to 9-12 inches deep (or even deeper if planted early). This large root does help loosen soil in the immediate root area; however, for soil conditioning and compaction relief we prefer a grass with a fibrous root system mixed with the brassicas. What’s even more interesting is there is still a thinner section of the brassica taproot that can tunnel several feet into the ground to reach multiple layers sequestering many deep nutrients.
Speaking of capturing nutrients, all brassicas do a great job of this in the fall. Radish, turnips, rapeseed and others can readily take up available nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, sulfur, magnesium and more/ These nutrients could otherwise be lost over the fall and winter until your next crop goes in during the following spring.
Brassicas aren’t greedy. They release those sequestered nutrients back into the soil as they break down throughout the winter. Brassicas are not winter hardy and will not require spring termination to melt into the soil. The photos above are great examples of what brassicas look like growing in the fall vs. what they look like in the spring. A few holes in the ground here and there along with active soil biology where the brassicas were makes for great planting conditions. As you can see, there is very little residue left of the brassicas. That is why we always recommend brassicas in a mix with some kind of grass that will break down slower and provide some additional soil cover and erosion control.
What brassicas are you using in your cover crops this fall?
Cover crops can be great tools to build soil. A growing cover crop acts like a sponge soaking up available nutrients and holding them in the tissues of the plants (Photo 1). When those cover crops are not harvested and are left to winterkill or are terminated mechanically or chemically, the above ground growth is able to break down and release those nutrients into the soil (Photo 2). We sometimes refer to this practice as a soil building year.
This process of leaving cover crops whole and then terminating allows that above ground growth to feed your soil biology. As the biology feeds on the residue, that is what creates organic matter in the soil. Increasing organic matter improves soil structure and water infiltration to help you catch the rain you get and keep it where plants need it. All of this and we haven’t even mentioned the role cover crop residue has in protecting the soil from temperature changes, erosion control, and more!
Using Cover Crops as Forage
Cover crops harvested as forage can provide high-quality stored feed, and none of the following information is intended to discount that fact. If the goal of your cover crop is providing forage, many blends can meet that perfectly, but that goal does not go hand in hand with soil building.
The benefits gained from harvesting a cover crop include having that living root in the ground, cover growing on your soil, and when the cover crop is terminated the below ground growth will break down and feed biology. However, the benefits of the above ground residue that we listed above are removed. The thing to remember here is that the nutrients that the cover crop sequesters will feed your livestock, but will not be returned directly to your soils.
Too tall, too short, or just right? What is that “perfect height” to leave pastures going into winter? It can be useful to vary your pasture heights depending on how the paddocks will be used over the winter and in the spring.
We are defining a tightly grazed pasture as having a residual height of 3-4 inches after the final grazing pass in the fall. Why would you want to graze the pastures this low? Areas grazed to 3-4 inches tall will be slightly stunted in the spring compared to areas left taller. This can be an advantage if you are planning on frost seeding in February-March. This can also be a good height to interseed in in the fall. The shorter grass will work well to drill into and its slowed growth will allow extra time for the new seedlings to get up and growing in the spring. We do not recommend doing this to all of your pastures as it can cause some stress to the stand
A “medium” height pasture would have a height of 4-6 inches after grazing in the fall. This is the preferred height for most pastures going into winter. This leaves enough residual that the grass will not pull from all its reserves going into the winter. The ground will be sufficiently covered to go through the winter and it will have enough height for spring growth to be jump started. Plan on leaving pastures that will be grazed late spring to early summer at this medium height this fall.
We would call a pasture that has 6-8 inches of remaining stubble “tall.” After the final pass of grazing in the fall, we do not recommend many pastures be taller than this unless you are stockpiling certain paddocks. If an area is taller and is not grazed before snowfall, air can be sealed out and cause snow molds. Areas left at 6-8 inches can kick start their growth quickly in the spring providing your earliest grazable paddocks.
Every pasture and management system is different, but consider these various heights as you get through your last passes of grazing this fall.
Looking to add cool season legumes to a cover crop this fall? Now is the time to get legumes planted in a cover crop, but don’t wait too long!
Nitrogen Fixing Legumes
What is pictured above? Insects? Fungus? Nope, nodules! This is where the magic happens that allows legumes to fix atmospheric nitrogen and turn it into a plant usable form. That whole process is explained here! When planning what to put into a cover crop blend, legumes are often a first choice due to their ability to fix that nitrogen for the following crop.
Why does this matter this time of year? Late summer and early fall can be a great time to get cool season legumes established. Some cool season legumes such as lentils, crimson clover, and balansa clover will grow this fall and begin fixing nitrogen and taking up other nutrients and then they will winterkill. Winterkill legumes will break down throughout the winter releasing that fixed nitrogen back into the soil to eventually be taken up by the following crop (See the image below). Other legumes like medium red clover, winter peas, and hairy vetch can overwinter and continue growing in the spring. These legumes will need a spring termination plan, but can supply high amounts of nitrogen credits from that spring growth.
Like we said before, do not wait too long this fall to plant your cool season cover crop mix that includes legumes. These cover crops need adequate time to establish to get you the best bang for your buck. Specifically the legumes that you want to overwinter need to be well established in order to build root reserves to survive the winter. In the Upper Midwest, Mid-September is a general timeframe to get diverse cover crop mixes seeded by. In any area, it should be at least 6 weeks before a killing frost.
You know that stockpiling your cool season pastures is a great way to stretch the grazing season of your perennials. What about stockpiling your warm season annuals? Forage quality and overall tonnage are just a few benefits to this practice.
Extending the grazing season is one of the most profitable tactics livestock owners can use. Aiming for the longest grazing season possible minimizes the amount of stored forage you have to grow, harvest, haul, and feed, which saves money all around. Also, livestock are able haul their own manure for you, saving the time, labor, and fuel it takes to move it from winter feeding areas.
These monetary benefits can sometimes pale in comparison to the power that grazing livestock can have on soil biology and their activity. Grazing warm season cover crops allows for residue and manure to be recycled directly back into the soil for microbes to start their part in the process. Above and below ground livestock stay well fed further into the winter.
If the warm season annuals are planted early in the summer, one to two cuttings could be taken before beginning to stockpile. If planted later in the summer, it may be best to let the mix grow and only be harvested by grazing once it is stockpiled. What exactly do we mean by “mix” in this situation? We recommend a blend of annual grasses, legumes, and brassicas for a stockpiling situation. This is usually some combination of sorghum sudangrass, sudangrass, millet, cowpeas, mung beans, clovers, and forage brassicas.
A similar mix is pictured above. The grasses in the mix will have a lot of growth in the summer heat and create structure in the mix to hold snow at different layers. We recommend using BMR varieties so that even at this more mature stage, they maintain better fiber digestibility. Legumes add protein to the mix earlier in the fall and winter and brassicas hold their quality longer into the winter. Livestock are able to make their own TMR combining the high protein brassica foliage with the digestible warm season grasses.
Now, don't let the name deceive you; alfalfa cannot be seeded the same day as trick-or-treating in the Midwest. However, late summer into the beginning of fall can be a great time to establish next year’s alfalfa fields.
One benefit is having this time available. Generally, this seeding window will land after spring and mid-summer seeding work is done and before harvest of other cash crops gets into full swing. It is important to finish planting at least six weeks before a hard freeze when there is moisture available (this will be important later). Another positive is there is usually less weed pressure for this new seedings in the fall. With summer annual weeds dying out as temperatures lower slightly, the new seeding will have less competition than spring seedings where those aggressive weeds can be your worst enemy. This helps establish a strong stand and takes away the requirement for a nurse crop, saving a little cash to spend on Halloween candy!
Remember that point about moisture early? Sometimes August to September can be dry unlike the ample rain available in the spring. If your alfalfa seeding happens to miss some of our fall showers, there can be trouble getting the seeds to germinate and plants to establish. However, if you pay attention to the forecast for seeding times, and Mother Nature works with us, the gentle fall rains can be perfect. The colder side of Mother Nature can be your other battle for fall seedings. If your hard freeze arrives sooner than expected, you could have some winter kill in areas where the alfalfa seedlings were not able to establish a hardy root system.
To summarize, general guidelines would be as follows:
Timing is key – seed alfalfa early enough to get established enough to survive the winter.
Pay attention to the forecast – moisture can be a critical factor in the fall for new seedings.
Skip the nurse crop in low weed pressure areas.
Utilize a window of precious time available to establish these seedings in the fall.
Pasture management is a common topic on Beyond Agronomy, but that is because it is so important to maintain productivity, forage quality and lifespan of your stand. Fall management can be what makes or breaks your pasture going into the winter.
The amount of stubble remaining after grazing is critical year-round and overgrazing can be caustic to the stand itself as well as forage quality. The fall is no exception. Grasses should be grazed or cut o shorter than 3-4 inches going into the fall or winter. Leaving more residue in the fall allows for quicker regrowth in the spring. Grazing below the recommended height would not leave enough surface area for plants to begin growing in spring and could cause winter kill. Conversely, leaving too much above ground growth that will not be grazed of the winter can have negative effects. When snow falls on “too tall” grass, it can cause the structure to collapse and create an environment with little air movement for snow mold to develop. During a winter with little snow cover, grass with too much top growth can readily have moisture wicked out of the plant. While avoiding both extremes of too tall and too short, you might leave grass stubbles at different heights in different paddocks. This would be for areas you are not stockpiling and will based on how you want the operation’s grazing wedge to be set up the following spring.
Late Fall-Winter Grazing
Speaking of stockpiling, how do you begin stockpiling for winter and fall feed? This begins with planning ahead. If you are not adding fall soil amendments, mainly nitrogen, desired paddocks should begin stockpiling rest at the beginning of August (this will vary based on region). When soil amendments like nitrogen are added, stockpiling rest should begin mid-August no ensure that burst of growth does not get too tall going into late fall and winter. Once your forage is stockpiled you can rotate through it making sure to still leave adequate stubble height.
Fall can be a good time for adding soil amendments to correct or increase anything that your soil tests tell you. If your pasture does need any fertility improvements, these additions can help build root reserves of your grasses preparing them for winter. Manure is safe to be applied in appropriate amounts once plants are dormant. Key word is “dormant.” Barenburg warns that “applying manure on green, non-dormant grass might stimulate growth, causing winter injury” to that new growth during the winter. Keep in mind that in pastures that include legumes, addition of nitrogen can be less of a concern. The legumes will release their fixed nitrogen as some of their top growth is breaking down over the winter. As always, ensure weather and field conditions are correct for making these amendments.
Protect your pastures like the investment they are this fall!
In this session, Jamie Labat is joined by Prairie Creek Seed’s Agronomist, Amanda Rollins. The two walk through field history and the goals of his oat field that was underseeded with red clover. The main topics discussed include how the field was seeded, what the goal of the clover is, residue management, and what the field will be next year. Watch the full session as well as a full Fall Cover Crop Powerpoint HERE!
Session Four: Planting Green- Sunflowers
Jamie and Jennifer, from the MSHC, go over how Jamie planted his oilseed sunflowers into a cereal rye cover crop stand. Jamie explains what he liked as well as what he would change about the process. The two dive into the benefits of planting green and how residue protects the soil from erosion and feeds soil biology. Watch it all HERE!
Feel free to send us any questions about topics discussed in these videos in the comments below or through our Facebook.